News from Tel Aviv on Wednesday, 11 January 2012

Stormy weather in Tel Aviv

Despite all the expectations of a sunny Mediterranean trip, Tel Aviv has been living through a blustery band of rainy and windy weather coming in from the sea.  We were fortunate that the rain held off in the morning as we were walking from our first hotel, the Grand Beach, to the hotel of our tour, the Carleton.  But once we dropped off our luggage and set forth on a walking tour of Tel Aviv with Philip Bregman, the weather became quite like Vancouver in the winter!

We walked south along the shore towards Jaffa.  In the distance we could see Saint Peter's Roman Catholic Church built on the ruins of a twelfth-century Crusader fortification.  All along the way the pigeons were sure signs of changing weather; they were crouched low, heads pointed to the south southwest from where the wind was blowing.

Gary and Philip pastry tasting

We turned into the city and walked over to the Carmel Market where outdoor stalls sold everything from food to clothing.  We picked up some of the best pastries I have ever tasted, including a honey-soaked pastry that I am glad I have only found here --- if found in Vancouver, my cardiologist would certainly be on my case as I put on the kilos.

Colonial building in Tel Aviv

From the Carmel Market we walked the streets of Tel Aviv getting a feel for this city.  It is a fascinating blend of cultures.  My own observation is that it is a fine example of what might be understood as a pan-Mediterranean culture whether European or Middle Eastern.  Everywhere one turns there are images of Israel's present and its past as well as its complex ethnic mix.

Shawarma on sidewalk

Upon our return to the hotel, well-fed, a bit wet and not a little bit tired, we were the beneficiaries of Philip's chutzpah.  When we checked in earlier in the morning, we asked about wireless access and were told that this would cost US $22 per day.  Since none of us were willing to pay such an amount, we were all resigned to a period of 'radio silence'.  Philip, however, mentioned to the manager that every other hotel he visits in Tel Aviv and Jerusalem have free wireless.  The result was that we were greeted upon our return with an invitation to use the hotel's VIP lounge where the wireless is free and a small but tasty buffet is on offer from 9.00 a.m. to 11.00 p.m.!  Hence I was able to post my blog from our first day and today's blog as well.

In the evening we had the first session of our group.  We are spread over the North American continent:  Vancouver, Ottawa, the Chicago area, the Newark area, eastern Texas, Louisiana and New York.  Ours is the first inter-faith tour sponsored by the Central Conference of American Rabbis, the blanket organization for the Reform movement in North America.

Modern Menora at Bauhaus Center

Tomorrow is a long day, beginning in Tel Aviv, then travelling north to Mount Carmel where we will have an opportunity to meet with a Druze community and learn about this little-known religious community.  More in tomorrow's blog!